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A Berliner writing on Veltliner

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This post starts with a lie: I wanted to post a quick note on Silvaner, but it refused to rhyme (or almost rhyme, in the case of Veltliner, an Austrian white wine variety) with my current location, a hotel room in Berlin. And so Silvaner got ditched from the headline, a familiar fate, as this article (in German) explains (see the second half of the interview). It’s such a nice summary of Silvaner wines in Germany and how the author, Stephan Reinhardt, got into Silvaner wine, that this paragraph at least should be translated into English. Maybe it will have a dramatic effect and we’ll all start ordering these Silvaners from Franken, Roter Hang, Kaiserstuhl, etc. Or at least people will no longer think, – “Silvaner?? They must have made that one up.”

white wine fermentation yeast 2012 German silvaner

The first 2012 juice bubbling away: but a taster suggests it’s way too early, the grapes need more sun.

There is another ‘endangered species’ of German white wine, if the same author is to be believed: the semi-dry (halbtrocken oder feinherb, in German) ‘Riesling Kabinett’. In this article he explores why this amphibian (light, mixed with a hint of sweet, neither entirely dry nor heavy-sweet) is such a rarity and pictures us as readers putting in so many repeat orders for ‘Riesling Kabinett halb-trocken’ that the vintners suddenly break with old habits and drive their harvesting devices out into the fields at exactly that time when sun and grapes agree on ‘Kabinett’. As for our own grapes, their sugar levels currently stand at 65 (Oechsle), so they still have some talking to do with a friendly sun.

2 responses

  1. There is no one around in Germany who writes about the local wines better than Stephan Reinhardt. As the Editor and Publisher of the renowned monthly Newsletter ‘WEINWISSER’ he knows what he is talking about. The Weinwisser is tasting and describing more than 4,000 wines annually as well as the wine market and news of wineries and their owners. The Weinwisser is amongst the most important and most frequently cited sources of wine and shopping advice. Stephan Reinhardt book on German Wines called The Finest Wines of Germany is in the English language, which is a rarity for German writers. It is already a best seller at Amazon although it will start selling end of September 2012. For anyone who wants to have an entertaining book ombined with thorough knowledge and information about the German Wines his book is a must.
    http://www.amazon.de/Finest-Wines-Germany-Regional-Producers/dp/1781310211/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1348049008&sr=1-1-catcorr

    • I very much liked the look of the Rosolo from Burgenland, in your SAVOIR VIVRE tasting (p. 105). Sounds like he only gets 1,5 hl per ha. Impressive!